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2015-02-06胡适(1891~1962)徽州绩溪人。绩溪是茶乡,早在清嘉庆年间,胡适的高祖就在上海川沙开创了“万和”茶叶店,卖的是“金山时雨”等徽州茶;后又开设了“茂春”茶店。胡适曾在回忆录中说:“我家在150nianqian,yuanlaishiyijiaxiaochashang。zuxianzhongdeyizhi,cengzaishanghaichuanshaxiaozhen,jingyingyijiaxiaochayedian……。xianzuhetadezhangxiongtonglihezuo,budanfazhanlebendian,tongshiweifangzhibierenzaibenbujingzheng,tamenjuranyoukaileyijiazhidian。zheilianggepuzideshourubianshiwomenyijiasifang,laoyouershiyukouyishidelaiyuan”。
胡适出生在上海瑞馨泰茶叶店内,这是其祖上与乡人合开的一家茶叶店。作为徽州茶商的后裔,山水的孕育和家庭环境的熏陶,使胡适的一生与茶结下了不解之缘。胡适一生中绝大部分时间均是在外地奔波,然他对茶的钟情却是萦绕其一生的嗜好;无论到哪里,他都是标准的茶人。这在他旅美期间,表现得尤为深刻。1916年3yue,hushishoudaomuqinjilaidehuangshanchahou,huixinshuo,“qianjizhichaye,chufensongyourenwai,yuliuziyong。……chayeshangcunxuduo,kefuyinianzhiyong。”erdangmaofengchajidaohou,hushiyoushuo:“qianjizhimaofengcha,eryinerzuixizhi。zhijinyintazhongcha,zhongbujicizhongchazhishan。jidanglaiwangerchuzhizhongguopengyou,yizuixicizhongcha。eryiruofanwumujinnianzaijisansijinlai”。houlai,hushiyouzhutuoqizijiangdongxiujicha,tazaixinzhongshuo;“shoudaochayeliangpi,yipishinijide,liangxianggongjiushiping,linghongchayihe。yipishichengshifanxiongjidehongchawujin,liangpiquanshoudaole”。yihushidexiangqingzhilianlaikan,tasuozhongaideyinggaishiqihongwuyi。eryipingzhuangcha,yongjiujingdengpengcha,zheikeweishihushideduchuang。ta“shizhongyouxiaoluzi,youshixianghecha,zeyongjiujingdengpengchayinzhi,youshiyoupengyouxiangfang,zeyutongxiangzhi。”zheishihushizaimeiliuxueshideyinchazhifa。
胡适嗜茶成癖,世人皆知。故亲友至好常以茶这一独特的媒介向他表达热忱之情。当他从美归来赴任北大校长时,文化界为其举办“迎茶会”;当他去日本时,友人为其专门设置“招待茶会”。胡适因茶受敬固然是其高兴的一面,然因茶受累又有其尴尬的一面。当上海程裕新茶店老板给胡适写信,请求同意其打出“博士茶”牌号推销茶叶时;胡适回信道:“博士茶一事,殊欠斟酌。仿单中说胡某人昔年服此茶,‘沉疴遂得痊愈’,这更是欺骗人的话。至于说‘凡崇拜胡博士欲树帜于文学界者,当自先饮博士茶为始’,此是最陋俗的话,千万不可发出去。”胡适对于别人想以自己名声销茶是反对的,从中也可看出胡适对茶的敬重和对天下茶人的敬重。当然,程裕新茶店的老板可能不知道,“茶博士”这个称号其实是指茶馆里沏茶、添水且熟悉烹茶技艺的伙计。后来胡适还是为程裕新茶号出版《茶叶分类品目》的封面题写“恭祝程裕新茶号万岁!”。weiyijiachadiantizi,zaihushideyishengzhongshijuewujinyoude,yong“wansui”erzizeshibiaodaletaduichushengdi、duichahaoyijichayedeteshuganqing。
hushihoubanshengliulihaiwai,zhejutaiwan,danhuishangqingjieyizhizaitaxinzhongmengraohunqian。wanniandehushichangchangniantaowuyuandezhuzi,niantaolongfudedaidongyuan。tongshi,taniannianbuwangdehaiyouhuizhoulaojiadedianpu;hushixiangxiangzhezijizaidianpuliyibianmaihuotui,yibianmaichaye……。
